Published: Canberra Times, Panorama, September 2004
A stretch of countryside once considered unsuitable for settlement and later the scene of a mass break out, doesn’t sound like a spot for a relaxing weekend break. Think again. Cowra is busily reinventing itself and reaching out to new generations of big-city visitors. Only a two hour drive through relatively lush country from the national capital, the breakout town offers attractions for a range of tastes.
Cowra’s identity has been forged from many and varied influences. They include a significant indigenous population, pastoral settlement, military history and misfortune, migration and cultural exchange. And more recently, the seachangers have moved into town, notwithstanding Cowra’s location hundreds of kilometres from salt water. There are big-city restaurateurs, writers, artists and even an ex-rock musicians. It has generated a kind of creative fusion with local and traditional instincts, and it seems to be bringing the best out in all concerned.
Anna Wong and Jerry Mouzakis are central to the story. Neila – their cosy shopfront restaurant on the main drag – embodies the multicultural couple’s commitment to fresh local ingredients, as well as their penchant for palindromes. Neila spells Alien backwards, and it seems an apt name – the descent of these out-of-towners on the countryside has left an indelible mark on the local dining landscape. A stream of stars and chef’s hats from leading restaurant critics is ample evidence of the success of their excellent modern regional cuisine.
“We aim to support the great local farmers here by featuring their produce in the restaurant. It could be the local asparagus of Brian and Mary Delaney, farmed rabbit of Bumbaldry, local Wagu-cross beef, or great local lamb from Mulligans Cowra,” said Anna.
Across town, Tim Pullen is similarly inspired. Not long ago, Tim and family salted and dried roma tomatoes supplied by the local cannery. Several years on, Tim’s decision to diversify the business into wider smoked products such as local trout, salmon, lamb and nuts has paid off. Visitors can also sample their range at a cafe within the smokehouse complex on Hanna street.
Where there is good food, inevitably good wine is not too far away. In Cowra’s case, chardonnay grapes have won the region increasing recognition among Australian wine commentators. A young Brian Croser, one of Australia’s leading winemakers, took to using Cowra region grapes in his early Petaluma Chardonnay while overseeing production at Charles Sturt Winery in Wagga Wagga. Today there are around 40 vineyards in the region, although a number provide fruit under contract for larger wineries such as Brokenwood, McGuigan and Rothbury Estate.
The Quarry Cellars on Boorowa Road offers sales and tastings on behalf of around six local wineries, and is home to the only cellar door restaurant in the region. The outdoor setting seems a perfect spot for a long weekend lunch. Further into town and Windowrie wines are on tasting at a beautifully renovated Victorian stone mill in the centre of the Cowra township. The O’Dea family purchased ‘The Mill’ in 1995, renovating the empty shell with the use of recycled materials such as train carriages, cattle yards, bulldozers and even part of Sydney Kingsford Smith airport.
The Cowra Food and Wine Group is doing its best to attract increasing numbers to the region – including through the annual wine show in July (one of the largest in Australia outside Sydney and Melbourne), and the forthcoming cork and fork event from 5-7 November.
“Instead of visitors having to drive around and try all the wineries, with Cork and Fork we are bringing all the wines to the one location to enable visitors to sample them all,” said Jon Wright of the Food and Wine Group.
History still looms large in the Cowra experience, and with good reason. The break out of Japanese prisoners of war (POWs) in 1944 signified the first action of WWII on Australian soil, and was the largest disturbance of its kind in our history. Cowra marked the 60th anniversary of the break-out in August this year – the event bringing to light some interesting anecdotes from those alive at the time. Bruce Weir, 16 at the time of the events, told of his discovery of two escapees on the family property. His mother insisted on offering scones and tea before they returned to the camp. According to local historian, Lawrance Ryan, this simple offering represented the first recognised act of reconciliation between Japan and Australia.
Locals and social historians alike point to Cowra as an early example of multicultural Australia. The Italian POW experience, in particular, is said to have shaped post-war migration to Australia. Captured in Egypt and transported to the Cowra camp, Italian soldiers participated in community life by planting tomatoes and grapes, and playing sport. The Italian officers would even drop into the local pubs for a drink.
“The Italian POWs were popular in Cowra. According to one anecdote, the local shire cleric was driving past a site where some Italian POWs were at work. The cleric was stunned to find an Italian holding a gun, and stopped to ask what had happened to the Australian guard overseeing their activity. The Italian replied that the guard had gone off to the toilet and asked him to keep a watch over his fellow POWs,” said Ryan. Another story tells of a group of Italians yelling and screaming to be let back into the POW camp after the truck that carried them to work sites left without them one day.
It is also not widely known that Jewish-Germans fleeing Nazi Germany came to live and work on Cowra farms, or that Indonesian freedom fighters were held here at the request of the Dutch. They were released once upon the realisation that they were, in effect, political prisoners and not POWs. In the wake of the war, Cowra also established one of Australia’s largest camps for assisted migrants from Eastern Europe.
The remnants of the former POW camp are visible among the grazing animals, indifferent to what lies below their boggy footprints. Archeologists report of the subterranean potential that still lies here to examine the habits and lifestyles of guards and prisoners. For now, visitors can continue a history trail up over the hill from the camp to the nearby cemeteries. It is here that all Japanese POWs who died in Australia were eventually buried, including casualties of the attack on Darwin. The local visitors’ centre also features an impressive hologram display of the events surrounding the break-out.
The tragic events that occurred here sixty years ago have bought communities in Japan and Cowra closer together. A Japanese cemetery was established here in 1964 by agreement with the Japanese Government. It was followed by a series of festivals of international understanding, and the opening of a Japanese garden designed by Tokyo architect Ken Nakajima. The garden is set in a lush mountain stretch of land which host 113 species of flora and 120 bird species. It is a very relaxing and serene location.
The connection of the Wiradjuri aboriginal people to Cowra and surrounding areas has not been entirely lost. The Wiradjuri were one of the largest indigenous tribes in New South Wales, their lands stretching from Nyngan to Albury and from Hay to Bathurst.
“People are starting to realise there was a very significant aboriginal population here – especially when you think there were something like 11 camps here as late as 1890,” said Lawrance Ryan. Murals depicting their history have been painted on pylons beneath the Lachlan River Bridge, but potential exists to inform visitors more about their importance to the area, and their rich history and culture.
There are plenty of good accommodation options for a weekend stay in Cowra. Dick and Cath Courtney, owners of the Country Gardens Motor Inn on Grenfell Street (02 6341 1100) also came to Cowra in search of a better quality of life. The Country Gardens is the highest rated accommodation in the township (four stars) and is set on a quiet block on the edge of town. Cath and Dick are passionate about the development of the region, as well as a good night out – rather generously transporting their guests into town (and sometimes back) for evening meals. For the coming weekend, they are offering a package of one evening’s accommodation and a meal at Neila for $99 a person.
Cowra is an endearing town undergoing an interesting cross-pollination of influences. In addition to the vibrant food, wine and artistic communities, local authorities have shown great wisdom in protecting some wonderful Art Deco and federation-style architecture. There are nice old fashioned pubs, and plenty of very hospitable locals up for a chat. And, don’t worry, it is ok to mention the war.